Some days I still wake up and can’t believe I live in Amsterdam. I’m still in the honeymoon phase after living here for nearly two years. To me, it’s a utopia – a tilted, timeworn brick maze that makes you feel cozy and cocooned, while simultaneously impressing you with its infrastructure, organization and international power.
Relocating here was never a plan, but a happy accident. My partner and I were drawn by a job offer for him – as is the story of many of the expats here – and have stayed, assuaged by the lifestyle, the melting pot of likeminded people, and the simple feeling of being home.
Ignorantly, having never visited before we made the move, my sole associations with the city were basically limited to weed and sex work; I imagined we were moving to a European, cobblestone version of Las Vegas. I was dumbfounded (emphasis on dumb) that the city’s party scene is much smaller aspect of the culture than my overly simplistic American perspective would guess.
Never too cool for a tourist trap, I’ve had the chance to check out the major attractions. I’ve also had friends and loved ones come to visit, giving me a chance to play hostess and show them around town.
With my family in town for a visit, I was inspired to write a post containing my thoughts on some of the popular activities here. Unlike a guide, which will be more comprehensive, this is more of an opinionated list of experiences that stood out – for good or bad – in my personal experience.
Onto the rant!
Hit ✓ Canal Cruise
Don’t make the mistake of dismissing canal cruises when planning your itinerary in Amsterdam. These tours are advertised heavily on the major travel websites, and can give the impression of being kind of cheesy and cringe, but I honestly never get tired of joining whenever a guest is in town.
Boat tour offers something similar to the city bus tours bookable in cities like London and New York. But rather than huffing exhaust in traffic, you’re gliding through the quintessential Amsterdam canals in an open boat, snuggled up in a blanket, sipping a beverage of your choice and sampling Dutch cheese, while passively learning about the city as a local tour guide points out historic landmarks and relays the city’s quirky legends.
The big “but” here is booking with the right company. There are dozens of different boat services in the city – and they aren’t all equal. The top hits on Google are mostly large closed-top boat services where passengers are squished together in rows of plastic seats like sardines while the tour guide mumbles into a microphone. You want to go with one of the smaller services, which offer a more intimate, human experience. A good one is Those Dam Boat Guys, but like most activities in Amsterdam, it’s important to book your timeslot ahead of time. If you arrive early, they’ll seat you in their cozy, aesthetic office and maybe pour you a glass of mulled wine while you wait.
Skip X A’DAM Lookout
I get it! A rooftop cocktail can be an ideal way to see a city’s skyline (and a perfect excuse to glam up while on vacation.) However, Amsterdam isn’t renowned for its skyscrapers or rooftop bars, so due to the lack of variety, you may be tempted to make a reservation at the A’DAM Lookout. In addition to its restaurant, the main attraction of this tower is its rooftop swing, which allows you to dangle precariously 100 meters above the ground. I can’t say I’ve experienced it, but from what I’ve heard, it’s nothing to write home about.
If you’re a big fan of hitting lookout points like the Tokyo Tower or the Empire State Building during your travels, you may find this experience worthwhile. But if you’re teetering on the edge (no pun intended) of whether or not to book it, I say skip it and make a reservation at Zoku instead. This atmospheric rooftop on the Amstel River that hosts open mic nights, cocktails and brunch.
Hit ✓ Albert Cuyp Market
You really can’t go wrong with a stroll through Albert Cuyp Market. For 100+ years, this daily market has gathered vendors selling art, textiles, jewelry, fresh produce, hot food, Dutch cheese and anything else one’s heart can desire. Do be prepared for crowds – especially on the weekend, as this destination can in no way be categorized as a “best kept secret” – but to me, it’s well worth the hype. Also, don’t miss the permanent storefronts hiding behind the vendor tents, where you can find boutiques, thrift stores and fabric stores.
Once you pick up a few souvenirs or a paper cup of pickled herring (lekker!), you can retire to one of the nearby restaurants and bars for a coffee or a cold beer. Even better, head down a block or two down to Da Michele for the most authentic Neapolitan pizza in Amsterdam, according to the author’s Italian husband.
Skip X Keukenhof Gardens
Somewhere roadside in Lisse, on an independent tulip-seeking adventure
If you’re visiting Amsterdam in the springtime, the fervor around tulips is contagious. After a windy, drizzly, dark winter, the bloom of the country’s iconic perennial is a veritable beacon of hope. The fields where they grow are a widely renowned spectacle, especially the Keukenhof Gardens, located a 40-minute drive from Amsterdam in South Holland. A whopping 1.5 million visitors flock each year during the two months it opens its gates between March and May. While there’s no arguing that the expansive gardens are inarguably majestic (and very Instragrammable), the intensity of the crowds and cost of the ticket are reason enough for locals to skip the attraction.
If you hate crowds but don’t want to miss out on the tulip experience, renting a car or braving the bike ride (in true Amsterdam fashion) to Lisse to view some of the many other crop farms is a great alternative – no ticket required. You can even bookmark the flower map to pinpoint some of the notable fields to keep handy during your daytrip. Just remember to respect the flowers’ space while you’re admiring their majesty; the farmers will thank you.
Hit ✓ Da Vinci Genius
There’s no devaluing the impressiveness and importance of the world famous Van Gogh Museum and Rijksmuseum, but if you are curious about a different way to appreciate art, make your way to Da Vinci Genius. It’s an interactive visual experience that used augmented reality to immerse you in the mind, story, art and work of the Renaissance mastermind. There are no obnoxious screens or 3D glasses here; just the manipulation of lighting and a touch of magic that create a cosmic, liminal world that will suspend reality for the time being while you bask in the wonder of Da Vinci’s creations and his life story.
I can’t recommend it highly enough, especially if you’re in a funk and need of a reminder of the beauty of life. Don’t be perturbed by its deceptively unassuming location (in what looks like a warehouse in the industrial area of Amsterdam’s Zuid neighborhood.) This experience is only a 15-minute ride from Central Station.
Skip X Foodhallen
De Hallen is something of a landmark in the West neighborhood of Amsterdam. The multipurpose building houses a cinema, café, hotel, and more. As the building used to be a multi-use depot, tram rails still run through the central passage, where art and jewelry vendors are permitted to set up shop on the weekend.
Perhaps most well-known is building’s Foodhallen, a bevy of international cuisine vendors. You can find an eclectic mix of fish and chips, oysters on the shell, dim sum, banh mi, tacos, draft beer and a much more – which is a nice concept if you can’t come to a consensus of what to eat among your group. As an aside, it reminds me a bit of the food cart culture in my hometown – Portland, Oregon – where every neighborhood has a collection of independent food trucks surrounding communal picnic tables. Back home, it’s the best way to find authentic, international bites like Chinese savory crepes, handmade perogies or poutine slathered in gravy.
Not to equate apples to oranges, but the comparisons between Foodhallen and the Portland food cart scene stop there. The handful of times I’ve visited, the food has been very hit-and-miss … and quite pricey. My speculation is that the vendors rely on the novelty of the building and uniqueness of the concept – as food cart culture is largely absent in Amsterdam – letting the quality of the food fall to the wayside.
If you’re in the neighborhood of De Hallen, it is worth it to take a stroll through to appreciate the atmosphere, do some shopping, grab a beer and take some photos; the architecture of the building is something to see in itself. The room that houses the food market is also grand, with its high-ceiling and brick backdrop, making for a unique, undeniably fun dining experience. But I wouldn’t recommend making a special trip to eat here if you’re traveling with foodies.
Hit ✓ Vondel Park
Ending on a high note, if you’re taking a trip to Amsterdam, make sure to pencil a walk through Vondel Park in between your other sightseeing plans. I always take visitors to this city landmark and often meet friends here on the weekends when the sun is out.
Conveniently located near the museum district, this park offers a green reprieve from the crowded streets. There is plenty of space to spread out a blanket and crack open a book. Then, inevitably, make your way to one of the park’s café restaurants for a cold drink or a sandwich for a perfect afternoon.
Every traveler has different interests and priorities. The key to a perfect trip in Amsterdam is striking a balance between leaving enough time to wander listlessly through the historic neighborhoods and booking the activities that speak to you in advance. All said, I’ve never regretted checking another item off my Amsterdam bucket list, so in the end, you can’t go wrong!